A couple of weeks ago I tried a simple t-shirt pattern using this floaty, floral fabric. You might remember, it didn’t work out too well…
So I’m trying again with a slightly different pattern, hoping that it’ll bring me more success. I’ve got a couple of little jackets that are really useful for wearing over vest tops this time of year, especially when you’re at work and you need to whip it off pretty quickly when it gets warm.
After a quick browse on Craftsy I found a great downloadable pattern for a square kimono top by Sew Caroline, which should be really easy to put together. A lot of kimono-style garments are sewn together with flat pieces only, no shaping in the sleeves or armholes, so they drape requires a soft, floaty fabric with a little bit of weight.
This jacket pattern also recommends that you some trim to the sleeves and edges, which will also give it a bit of weight and body, although I didn’t have any on hand to add to mine when I made it.
The pattern consists of three large pieces, one for the back (cut on the fold), two for the front (cut one reverse), and two rectangle sleeve pieces, which are also cut on the fold.
Again, here I’m cutting the back piece out and camping it to the fold using some bulldog clips to guide the pattern. This is really useful when it comes to a fabric with a lot of movement in it, because it helps it lay a little flatter. I’ve pinned alone the rest of the pattern and cut it out with shears.
As you can see, it’s a very square piece, with only a small curve on one side, which will sit under the arm. The armhole is cut straight and at an angle, so it falls neatly.
Here’s one of the front pieces laid on top of the back piece. We’re going to sew the top and side seams, attach the sleeves, and then turn the front over twice to create the edge. The top of the jacket here actually makes the shoulder seams, and the small gap between the front pieces will sit at the nape of the neck. You with me?
Again, i’m using one washi tape so I can make sure my seam’s in the right place. I’m also using a ballpoint needle this time, which is a lot nicer to sew with, and doesn’t pull the fabric at all.
Here’s the finished jacket, and you can see hoe the drape of the fabric is affecting the shape of the jacket. It’s one-size-fit-most and generously sizes, so you can see there’s a lot of fabric on the sides.
Here you can see how the sleeve sits in (although this was before I pressed it out, so it looks a little wrinkly).
I used the overlocker on the seams to finish them, but I think next time I’ll work at enclosing the seams with French seams so that there isn’t any visible finishing on the sides.
Here’s how it sits on the sides, excuse the disgusting (as aways) mirror. You can see that the shoulder sits quite low on the arm, leaving a wide sleeve. There’s a possibility that I’ve sewn the sleeves the wrong way, because they were wide rectangles without any markings on them. Oh well.
There is a lot of fabric gathering around the underarm/side area, which is a bit annoying, and it does ride up a bit. I’m hoping that by adding a bit of beaded trim this will make it hang a little lower. It does sit nicely just under my bum though, and I like that.
And from he front here – nice 3/4 length sleeves
I’m definitely going to try it again, probably in a satin, and to adjust the side seams ever so slightly to bring it in a little bit and make the whole thing a little less voluminous. It might also be cool to add a front fastening, low, around belly-button height, to stop the jacket from gathering by my arms.
My boyfriend told me I looked like a “big frumpy marshmallow”, so I guess sit wasn’t a hit with him. Oh well.
What do you think?